Arthur Fromer rates Argentina at the top of the world’s destinations to visit and this diverse vacation did not disappoint with its passion and scenic wonders. We start with several days in Buenos Aires, a vibrant capital with a European flair and a Latin flavor similar to Madrid. Our hotel was right in the center of town and our guide Marcello was the best I have ever had with my groups here. The dollar is strong here, so after the tours, the group shopped. Here are the best braided rawhide items on the planet. Terry bought 3 jackets cut to fit his “small” body. I got a unique pair of boots made from capybara, which is the largest rodent in the world: couture rat boots.
Our party of 35 was the perfect size. Most attended one of the most important tango shows in the city to enjoy a delicious dinner and world-class tango. This melancholic dance born of the poor classes appeals to everyone today with timeless entertainment. For the kitchen, this is the world of beef. With 57 million cows, it’s a carnivore’s dream and a vegan’s nightmare. At Las Linas restaurant we shared the 2 pound (800 gram) steak. I asked Marcello why nobody is fat here. He said they live on an Atlkins diet of beef and salad and walk every day.
We spent a day with the gauchos (cowboys) in an authentic estancia (ranch) in las pompas (field). We ride horses and enjoy a sizzling asado (BBQ) of more endless meats. There are 800 ranches in the region. Argentines love their horses. A top polo horse can cost $400,000 and its embryo $40,000.
We flew to Iguazú, “land of great waters” and stayed at the beautiful Hotel Panarama that overlooks the borders of Paraguay and Brazil. The highlight was a full day tour of the famous falls. It’s my fourth visit here, but the omnipotence of it all still amazes me. And the Devil’s Throat area is so amazingly powerful; creates a feeling of fear in me. Locals here say, “Niagara is just a trickle in the mind of God.” These 2 mile long falls have twice the flow! Here it rains 321 days a year. We were blessed with sunshine and rainbows. It was impressive as we walked 6 miles of platforms both above and below 275 falls. It ended with an exciting boat safari. After giving out rubber ponchos, the Indian drivers drove us at full speed towards the falls. We didn’t want it to end.
Later we head towards the lush terrain of the Province of Las Misiones which was founded by the Jesuits in the 1700’s who came to convert the native Guarani. (See the movie “The Mission” with Robert DeNero). We then transfer to 4×4 trucks and head to the remote wildlife reserve called “the green corridor”. 80 miles from the falls in the far north of Argentina, just 3 miles from Brazil. We arrive at the Yacutinga Eco-Lodge hidden deep in the rainforest. It was like walking onto the set of Avatar. The unique architecture of stone, adobe and tree trunks is integrated in perfect harmony with nature. Our charming bungalows do not have a television, but they do have electricity, comfortable beds, drinking water, a wood-burning stove and hot showers. It is a sustainable tourism with adventure under control. It included a pool, bar, and organic meals throughout our stay. Unlike our previous AFS Amazon trips, there are no resident “pets” at this lodge. They refuse to disturb anything in their natural habitat and insist on keeping wild animals wild.
Yacutinga promotes a dozen conservation programs and supports a nearby town of 120 Guarani. The Guarani are the poorest of the poor indigenous people who strive to preserve their ancient culture. With the encroachment of the logging industry, it is almost impossible for them to adapt to the new world around them. The hostel employs Guarani who often don’t show up due to the superstitions of the cosmos on any given day. Beneath the forest canopy at night, we listen to a lecture about this fragile disappearing forest.
There are 2 resident biologists and an ornithologist. The next morning, they led the group on a hike to identify native plant and animal species. I slept late and went to the kitchen to fry some eggs like at home. The group returned covered in mud. I was amazed at his perseverance and good humor. The canopy is often teeming with orchids and hummingbirds. Unfortunately that week we were greeted by the buzz of omnipresent mosquitoes and intermittent rain.
Later we paddle in kayaks down the San Francisco stream to the Iguazú river. Here is a world of hummingbirds and butterflies. There are also giant tapirs, capybaras and ocelots. Apart from some monkeys and bird species. We saw no other wildlife. I wonder if it is due to poachers and deforestation. However, it was educational about the symbiotic relationship of each plant element needed to sustain a rainforest. My group started going into Wi-Fi and cell phone withdrawals. 3 days here is enough.
Back home, I reflect on this varietal vacation of extremes. This Adventures For Singles trip was $1,399 on land. Argentina is an attractive destination with diversity to the north, south, east and west. Next year I may present a cruise through Patagonia. Marcello begged to come and guide us. He loved our group and so did I.